Rear-Curtain SyncYou can set your flash (built-in or external speedlight) to fire during a long exposure. This is useful when you want to still see your background when using a flash (i.e. when you need to compensate for the inverse square law).
Depending on what you're going for, you have the choice of either front-curtain (AKA first curtain) sync or rear-curtain (AKA second curtain) sync.
Click HERE to see a super-cool slow-motion demonstration of how your front and rear curtain work.
See image below. Rear-curtain sync means the flash fires at the very end of a long exposure, thus freezing any moving elements in their "final" place.
Depending on what you're going for, you have the choice of either front-curtain (AKA first curtain) sync or rear-curtain (AKA second curtain) sync.
Click HERE to see a super-cool slow-motion demonstration of how your front and rear curtain work.
See image below. Rear-curtain sync means the flash fires at the very end of a long exposure, thus freezing any moving elements in their "final" place.
Source: (http://www.exposureguide.com/high-speed-sync-flash.htm)
These are two fantastic tutorials that show how to use this feature in the field. You must know how to set this and use it!
VIDEO TUTORIAL: Understanding Rear-Curtain Sync (7:17)
These are two fantastic tutorials that show how to use this feature in the field. You must know how to set this and use it!
VIDEO TUTORIAL: Understanding Rear-Curtain Sync (7:17)
VIDEO TUTORIAL: Using Rear-Curtain Sync to Emphasize Motion (9:30)
The video above shows exactly how to get spectacular "dance floor" action shots in low light. You'll be trying this soon, so take notes!
Demonstration Using NIKON D5300 and Rear Curtain Sync
Rear-Curtain Sync Project
This will be challenge, especially the first time you try it. You will deliberately be shooting this in a dark room to simulate the kind of environments where you're most likely to use this feature.
LOCATION / ENVIRONMENT
In School
We're going to make our own "dance floor" in Photography Studio (check with your TEACHER first!) Borrow a string or two of mini-lights and plug them in against a background wall. Other lights needs to be off (except perhaps an open door into the main classroom)
At Home
Use desk lamps, string lights or a flash light to simulate rear lighting that over exposes your subject. Then use the suggested camera settings to balance the foreground and background lighting. (Note: use a dark room to take the images and properly demonstrate the effects).
SUBJECT
Experiment with camera-to-subject and subject-to-background distance.
CAMERA GEAR & SETTINGS
- Use a speedlight (set to TTL, centre-weighted, aimed directly forwards to start)
- Try a portrait lens (50mm fixed) first, and perhaps your kit lens too if you have time
- Set your camera to continuous (burst) mode
- Shooting Mode: S (Shutter Priority) or M (Manual)
- Shutter: You probably want 1/5s - 1/10s to start
- Aperture & ISO: See below.
WHAT TO SHOOT AND HOW TO SET IT UP
- One or more people dancing! (or otherwise rocking out, cheering, etc.)
- Start without the flash on and set your camera (using recommended shutter speed) so that the background looks how you want it (i.e. trial & error!)
- Turn on the flash, and point it straight ahead with no diffuser (i.e. use direct flash).
- Take test shots of your subject for exposure level purposes. Adjust flash compensation if necessary - you will probably want to turn DOWN the flash.
- Once exposure seems right, fire away using the twisting techniques demonstrated in the second video! Shoot lots!
WHAT AM I ACTUALLY HANDING IN?
When all is done, you need to submit four good shots from this shoot. You can develop them in Lightroom, but know that you shouldn't need to do very much.
EXAMPLES:
This will be challenge, especially the first time you try it. You will deliberately be shooting this in a dark room to simulate the kind of environments where you're most likely to use this feature.
LOCATION / ENVIRONMENT
In School
We're going to make our own "dance floor" in Photography Studio (check with your TEACHER first!) Borrow a string or two of mini-lights and plug them in against a background wall. Other lights needs to be off (except perhaps an open door into the main classroom)
At Home
Use desk lamps, string lights or a flash light to simulate rear lighting that over exposes your subject. Then use the suggested camera settings to balance the foreground and background lighting. (Note: use a dark room to take the images and properly demonstrate the effects).
SUBJECT
Experiment with camera-to-subject and subject-to-background distance.
CAMERA GEAR & SETTINGS
- Use a speedlight (set to TTL, centre-weighted, aimed directly forwards to start)
- Try a portrait lens (50mm fixed) first, and perhaps your kit lens too if you have time
- Set your camera to continuous (burst) mode
- Shooting Mode: S (Shutter Priority) or M (Manual)
- Shutter: You probably want 1/5s - 1/10s to start
- Aperture & ISO: See below.
WHAT TO SHOOT AND HOW TO SET IT UP
- One or more people dancing! (or otherwise rocking out, cheering, etc.)
- Start without the flash on and set your camera (using recommended shutter speed) so that the background looks how you want it (i.e. trial & error!)
- Turn on the flash, and point it straight ahead with no diffuser (i.e. use direct flash).
- Take test shots of your subject for exposure level purposes. Adjust flash compensation if necessary - you will probably want to turn DOWN the flash.
- Once exposure seems right, fire away using the twisting techniques demonstrated in the second video! Shoot lots!
WHAT AM I ACTUALLY HANDING IN?
When all is done, you need to submit four good shots from this shoot. You can develop them in Lightroom, but know that you shouldn't need to do very much.
EXAMPLES:
